从文化中汲取灵感，设计师以苏绣诠释时尚
Su embroidery (刺绣) is ranked among the four most celebrated kinds of Chinese embroidery. Originating in Suzhou — after which it is named — and spreading to surrounding areas in Jiangsu province, Su embroidery requires delicate workmanship, such as its variety of stitches (针法) and strong sense of color. Su embroidery has enjoyed the reputation of being a kind of three-dimensional painting on silk, as its makers have invented a variety of stitches to capture the details of real life and of paintings.
Born into several generations of embroiderers, fashion designer Lan Yu remembers that her first piece of Su embroidery was a bib (围兜) made for her by her mother Lan Tanghua, for use as a child at kindergarten. Unlike the plain white bibs of others, Lan Yu’s bib made her feel special and deeply loved.
Growing up in the world of embroidery, as a young teenager, Lan Yu did not think of taking on the family business. Having studied dance for years, Lan Yu hoped to become a dancer. However, injuries forced her to reconsider. Still hoping to engage with art, she enrolled at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. “My mother half-jokingly asked, ‘Will you be a tailor? For the rest of your life?’ At the time, I felt that fashion design would allow me to imagine as freely as dancing on the stage, while also being a career for life,” Lan Yu says.
During college, Lan Yu was introduced to different styles of traditional embroidery and began to feel her generation should take responsibility for keeping these traditions alive by incorporating elements of modern design. As she studied fashion design both in China and abroad, Lan Yu has been attempting to give the tradition a fresh look more in line with the tastes of the younger generation of customers from around the world.
Lan Yu and her mother are currently sharing the fruits of their explorations at Poetic Charm of Splendid Attire, an exhibition at the National Art Museum of China in Beijing. On show are dozens of recent designs inspired by classical Chinese poetry and paintings, as well as brocade (锦缎) pieces Lan Yu worked on with her mother, which create chemistry between the past and the present.
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