一道简单却惊艳的冬季甜品
Come into my apartment, and you’ll see many bottles of wine on my dining table. My husband imports Portuguese wine and often samples it at restaurants, bars, and wine stores. Usually, the leftover wine goes to our neighbors, but if I feel creative, I use it in dishes like braised short ribs or risotto, or for poaching winter fruits like pears.
Red wine poached pears — poire à la Beaujolaise — are a classic French dessert found in small restaurants and bars. Pears are simmered (煨) with red wine, sugar, and sometimes warm spices until tender, then served with their poaching liquid. It’s an easy dessert that’s fancy enough for a dinner party and simple enough for a weeknight. Plus, you can make it up to three days ahead. The pears soak up a lovely burgundy color from the poaching liquid.
Though traditionally made with Beaujolais, a fruity red wine from Gamay grapes, almost any red wine works fine here. The type of pear matters less than its ripeness. You want them just ripe and slightly soft but not so tender they fall apart during poaching. I like Bartlett and Starkrimson pears — they are juicy and when ripe, soften while keeping some firmness, making them perfect for cooking. Their skins change color as they ripen, giving you a good idea when they’re ready: Bartlett pears turn yellow, while Starkrimsons become brighter red. When unsure, feel your pears and smell them — they should give slightly when gently pressed and smell sweet.
To give my poached pears a flavor like wintry mulled wine, I add fresh orange peel, a cinnamon stick, cloves, black peppercorns, and star anise (八角香料) to the wine. Just enough to give a warm spiced note without overwhelming the pears. While delicious with their poaching liquid, I like to reduce the wine for a thicker sauce. After removing the spices, I simmer the poaching liquid until it thickens into a glaze, then spoon it over the pears. Enjoyed alone or with vanilla (香草) ice cream or sauce, it makes me feel like I’m in a warm and comfortable French bistro — even if I’m just on my couch.
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