时文摘要
本文讲述了作者在摩洛哥向导Hussein的陪伴下，徒步攀登北非最高峰图卜卡勒峰的见闻。沿途不仅展现了壮丽的自然风光，还通过与当地人的交流，生动呈现了传统生活方式的变迁、独特的市场文化以及当地人的幽默与智慧。
Walking up the mountain path from Imlil, my guide Hussein and I step aside to let a loaded mule pass. Looking back, I see tall houses among the trees on the lower slopes. There is a lot of building work going on, some to repair damage from the 2023 earthquake. Turning south, I see the Atlas Mountains, with snow near the top. That is where we are heading — the peak of Toubkal, the highest point in North Africa.
Hussein has been a guide here all his life. “Most people work in tourism now,” he says. “Twenty years ago, everyone grew food just for themselves. Now we’ve also planted apple trees to sell. This leaves us time for tourist work.” I ask if the change is good. He nods confidently. In a country where half the people are under 30, the young population may find it easier to accept change.
As we climb higher, we pass a small holy place. The river is almost clean, but not completely. I step into the cold water to pick up some plastic bottles. Hussein and two other guides jump in to help. “City people,” they complain. I say, “You might think that in a holy place, they would try to be clean.” This makes one guide laugh. He says: “My grandfather told me that the shrine (圣地) used to be an animal shelter and they built the dome over a dead donkey.”
The night before, I bought some amlou, a local mixture of nuts and honey, in the market. The seller made me taste it first. We then agreed on a price, and he added extra walnuts to complete the deal. This kind of face-to-face bargaining makes shopping fun. Morocco always surprises me with its honesty and its ability to make a joke.
Finally, we reach a mountain hut built for the many visitors. Mount Toubkal has become a famous peak. Hussein, always practical, sees the good side: “This means more work for guides.” For those who don’t like crowds, his answer is simple: “Go somewhere else.” There are other, quieter peaks nearby. For a moment, I am tempted, but like most, I want to stand on the highest point.
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